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Showing posts from October, 2018
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Apothescary Scents - Mary Shelley Perfume Oil Mary Shelley (“Shelley”) was released by Apothescary Scents as part of the Literary Classics Collection.   On me, Shelley wears as an oriental spicy fragrance. In her description of the fragrance, the perfumer includes a quote from the namesake of the fragrance, “Solitude was my only consolation - deep, dark, deathlike solitude.” (Mary Wollstonecraft Shelley)   The inclusion of this particular quote is telling as it accurately sets the scene for what will play out in the wear of the fragrance.   Shelley the person and the fragrance is colored with dark, mysterious vibes. As she opens, Shelley bursts with a deep, juicy, bold blood orange generous sprinkled with ginger.   The note is biting and spicy.   There is a hint of sweetness that feels just out of reach.   As Shelley wears, a vibrant and warm clove is detected.   There is a resinous underpinning courtesy of the cardamom that amplifies the both the sweet and the spicy.   A
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Kensington Apothecary – Capri 1966 EDP Kensington Apothecary has been on my radar for a while now.   As a beauty blogger, I became aware of the brand some time ago through their skincare line.   I was impressed by the founder’s use of natural ingredients and their commitment to community.   When they made the decision to launch their first fragrance collection, Expatica Scent Collection, I was immediately interested.   I was fortunate enough to be able to obtain a sample of one of the three releases, Capri 1966 (“Capri”).   Capri has been described by the perfumer as a “tomboy floral”.    Of course, many of us in the fragrance community no longer consider fragrance male or female, however, there can be made some distinction in notes of scents which were traditionally identified as owning to male or female. If you’ve followed my fragrance blog, you already know that I personally love a scent that tells a story.   In the case of Capri, the perfumer is sharing her vintage daydre
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Parfums Dusita - Erawan EDP Erawan is a woody aromatic fragrance released in 2017 from Parfums Dusita.   I selected this fragrance for testing as it’s notes seemed appropriate for the fall-like weather my region is finally moving to. Erawan opens with a creamy nutty woody herbal accord.   The opening is quite unique within the woody aromatics I’ve tested.   There is a brightness and complexity to it while at the same time, not feeling “wet”.   The first whiff is reminiscent of countryside barns.   There is a duality in scent with both a dried tobacco leaf and a fresher green note that I can attribute to the florals.   The greenness adds a touch of water to the composition.   As Erawan wears, I get a vanilla laden hay.   There is a powdery softness to the vanilla without it becoming too sweet or too powdery.   The vanilla almost pulls to a milk chocolate.   In the drydown, I get an infusion of warmth and a slight amplification of the woody notes while retaining the complex lay
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Giorgio Armani – Sì Passione EDP Sì Passione (“Passione”) is a 2017 flanker release from Giorgio Armani.   To be honest, I almost did not try this fragrance as I am admittedly not a fan of the original.   Still, the fact that this is a floral fruity fragrance convinced me otherwise. Passione opens with a bright, sparkling pear that is slightly spiced by pink pepper.   I get the original version’s blackcurrent underpinnings.   It is a familiar berry, yet different.   There is an assertiveness to the opening that belies its fruity floral nomenclature.   Abut an hour into wear, I get a rose and jasmine bouquet.   The rose is a fresh blossoming note with no jammy-ness.   The jasmine is clean and clear without feeling overdone.   The addition of heliotrope at this point in development was an inspired choice.   While I get the typical powdery hints common with the note, I get more of a comforting almond-vanilla.   The counterpoint added by the heliotrope ushers in the beginning
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Pinrose – Secret Genius Secret Genius (“Genius”) was released in 2015 and is the first fragrance I’ve tested from Pinrose.   Genius is an oriental vanilla. If you look below the main review, you’ll see I’ve kept the brand’s Notes as published instead of converting it to the “standard” fragrance terms for the note construction.   The way the brand describes Notes and, moreover, the way they describe the basic “vibe” of their fragrances speaks to who their target audience is.   In the case of Genius, the fragrance is described as: VIBE   Trustworthy • Comforting • Sexy PERFECT FOR Hatching plans and sneaking kisses SIPS LIKE   White Russian Genius isn’t a fragrance that has much by way of development with the exception of the initial note I get in the very opening.   Basically, it’s a “what you smell is what you get”.   And that’s not necessarily a bad thing.   What was less than spectacular was the very first opening note that I eluded to.   On me, for some reason, t
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By Kilian - Vodka on the Rocks EDP Vodka on the Rocks (“Vodka”) was released By Kilian in 2014.   The fragrance is an interesting aromatic with strong earthy underpinnings. The opening of Vodka is surprisingly much like the initial pour of vodka into a glass of ice.   Through the use of aldehydes, which typically are not a favorite of mine, Kilian manages to replicate the essence of that singular moment.   There is a slight spiciness to the opening with coriander being more prominent than cardamom, but overall the clear alcohol accord comes through. As Vodka wears, I get the bitter rhubarb and rose.   The two are well paired and with the help of Lily of the Valley, a citric floral emerges.   At the same time, I begin to get smoky leathery notes.   On me, the base notes are just smoky enough that I get a vibe of a white incense.   Vodka on the Rocks wears on me for roughly 9 hours with moderate projection. Notes: cardmom, coriander, aldehydes, bitter rhubarb accor
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Mugler - Les Exceptions - Wonder Bouquet EDP In 2017, Mugler added Wonder Bouquet (“Wonder”) to the Les Exceptions Collection.   This floral fruity gourmand adds a decided twist to the fragrance family with the surprise addition of a bread/bran accord. You wouldn’t think it would work.   Sure, we’re used to fruity florals with “edible” notes.   We’re also used to the whole host of gourmands out there with doses of vanilla and chocolate and fig… but bread?   Yes.   It works; and surprisingly well. Wonder opens with a lovely fruity floral offering.   The notes are so well blended that the actual scent feels like a lovely passing breeze infused with white florals.   There is a sunniness and fresh sweetness to the florals, courtesy of the orange blossom, and the jasmine is well tempered.   In the mix is also an almost yeast-like note.   It’s just there, in the background, and yet tangible.   It’s the best of the “just preparing bread to rise” scent.   Through the developm
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Mugler Les Exceptions - Oriental Express EDP To help celebrate the Mugler Friends and Family Event, I thought I’d give you another Mugler fragrance review.   Oriental Express (“Express”) is, not surprisingly, an oriental fragrance released by Mugler in 2014.   Express is not your Mother’s oriental.   It is also not one of those 80s-style in your face orientals.   Instead, it has a “come closer” vibe to it. Express opens with a cozy, powdery slightly spiced vanilla.   There is an evolving greenness in the background that lends a slight edge to the otherwise softness.   Into wear, I get a creamy woody note.   The woodiness is ever so slight as to not move this into a woody fragrance territory.   It simply adds depth and contrast.   There is a sense of classic minimalism to the fragrance while at the same time striking a different chord in the oriental fragrance family.   Express feels like what comfort food tastes like. Express wears on me for roughly 10 hours with moderate