Binxcat's Purrfect Fragrance

Parfums Dusita - Erawan EDP Erawan is a woody aromatic fragrance released in 2017 from Parfums Dusita.   I selected this fragrance for testing as it’s notes seemed appropriate for the fall-like weather my region is finally moving to. Erawan opens with a creamy nutty woody herbal accord.   The opening is quite unique within the woody aromatics I’ve tested.   There is a brightness and complexity to it while at the same time, not feeling “wet”.   The first whiff is reminiscent of countryside barns.   There is a duality in scent with both a dried tobacco leaf and a fresher green note that I can attribute to the florals.   The greenness adds a touch of water to the composition.   As Erawan wears, I get a vanilla laden hay.   There is a powdery softness to the vanilla without it becoming too sweet or too powdery.   The vanilla almost pulls to a milk chocolate.   In the drydown, I get an infusion of warmth and a slight amplification o...

By Kilian - Vodka on the Rocks EDP Vodka on the Rocks (“Vodka”) was released By Kilian in 2014.   The fragrance is an interesting aromatic with strong earthy underpinnings. The opening of Vodka is surprisingly much like the initial pour of vodka into a glass of ice.   Through the use of aldehydes, which typically are not a favorite of mine, Kilian manages to replicate the essence of that singular moment.   There is a slight spiciness to the opening with coriander being more prominent than cardamom, but overall the clear alcohol accord comes through. As Vodka wears, I get the bitter rhubarb and rose.   The two are well paired and with the help of Lily of the Valley, a citric floral emerges.   At the same time, I begin to get smoky leathery notes.   On me, the base notes are just smoky enough that I get a vibe of a white incense.   Vodka on the Rocks wears on me for roughly 9 hours with moderate projection. Notes: cardmom, coriande...

DedCool – Ivy Blanc EDP Ivy Blanc (“Ivy”) is a new release from DedCool and is part of the Series 2 Collection.   On me, it wears like a woody spicy fragrance. When Ivy first opens, I get a brief, bright, leaf-like note.   Very soon after, I get a stunning pink pepper that is tempered by a smooth and rich sandalwood.   There is a cedar-like woodiness to the accord. At about the one hour mark, I get a warm, slightly resinous amber and a hay-like note.   The amber seems to float with a white smoky incense.   The fragrance does not turn dark but instead, remains cozy and comfortable with a note of bergamot that elevates the fragrance without transforming it into a floral. There is a warmth and depth to Ivy that takes me to the woods in the very best way.   The scent reminds me of Fall without having the traditional pumpkin or Fall-spice notes.   Ivy Blanc wears on me with soft projection for roughly 8 hours. Notes: Top: Pink Pepp...

Tauer Perfumes - Les Annees 25 EDP Recently launched (2018) to celebrate the brand’s 25 th anniversary (congratulations!), Les Annes 25 (“Annes”) is a floral woody musk. Annes opens with a glorious, sparkling citrus accord.   I get a bold and juicy orange that is bright and actually feels celebratory.   As the fragrance wears, white floral blends with a spiced ginger and creates an intriguing introduction for the addition of a powdery true rose note.   The rose is reminiscent of a dew-laden petal on a Spring morning where the lovely waft of rose permeates the air. As Annes wears, a decadent base of oakmoss, tonka, sandalwood, and amber gris add a sophistication to the fragrance.   There is a creamy smokiness that feels very classic “Tauer”.   In its finishing hours, a light musk and equally light patchouli add complexity while a final touch of vanilla adds a delicately sweetened exuberance. Les Annes 25 wears on me with soft projection for ro...

Mugler - Les Exceptions: Fougere Furieuse EDP Fougere Furieuse (“Furieuse”) is an aromatic fougere that was released in 2014.   In general, it follows the formula of a fougere in that you get the fern and geranium (here in lieu of lavender) as well as the coumarin.   I would note the coumarin appears as a base note, however, as the wear of this fragrance is fairly linear on me after the first hour of wear, it somewhat defies the formulaic composition.   Furieuse also gives us the moss and wood components with the wood being fairly prominent in wear. Furieuse opens with an intensely green herbal wood.   There is a freshness to the green herbs and a deliberate depth to the woods.   The fern stands out with a crisp bite.   Soon after, these notes are joined by a spicy geranium and white floral notes.   A smooth hay-like veil envelopes the fragrance and I get what feels very much like the traditional Mugler Alien woods and amber.   Through t...

House of Matriarch - Sacre Noir Sacre Noir is the second collaboration between perfumer Christi Meshell and Joseph Sagona, my dear friend and fellow fragrance blogger.  (Sacre Noir comes on the heels of their previous collaboration, The Longing.  You can read my review of The Longing at: http://bit.ly/2k9H4im ).  I was anxious to try this fragrance as I knew, based on pre-release information, that this fragrance would contain many unique notes and was curious to see how the perfumer would create this Winter tribute to The Holly King.  Ms. Meshell has the rare talent of being able to blend complex, multiple, and unique notes seamlessly so I was extremely hopeful I would enjoy the result.  Sacre Noir opens with a chilly walk into the forest in the heart of Winter.  It is here in the first moments of wear that the perfumer is hinting at where our journey will be taking us.  There is a slightly sweetened citrus laying at the base of snowy evergree...

Houbigant Parfums Paris - Cologne Intense “The transportative Cologne Intense fragrance honors the alluring originator composed in 1709 by Jean Marie Farina, an impeccable Italian perfumer who'd settled in Cologne and founded a proprietary perfume factory the same year. Named in veneration of his western German city of adoption, his aqua mirabilis masterpiece became an international paragon coveted by titled European nobility, royals and courtesans. The "Water of Cologne" was ferried into France's regal courts by Louis XV's royal French soldiers and officers stationed in Cologne during the Seven Years' War.” Cologne Intense is labeled as a citrus aromatic.  As such, I was expecting a traditional citrus aromatic.  The opening is supposed to be “Evocative of a clean, fresh, sunny spring morning after a passing shower”.  I did not find this to be true.  Instead, while I do detect notes of bergamot, neroli, and petigrain, these notes do not appear until l...

Hermes - Eau d’Orange Verte “Eau d’Orange Verte is the scent of the Little Prince in all of us.” (Jean-Claude Ellena)  I just don’t know.  I feel like the Little Prince would probably go with a different fragrance.  I’ll let you know what I think and then you can decide. Eau d’Orange Verte opens with a beautiful, fresh, juicy orange.  The orange feels quite green on me and does not pull overly sweet.  The note is realistic; as if you are smelling an orange while standing in a grove.  Within about 45 minutes, the singular orange note has faded and in its place arrives a general citrus note.  It is quite possibly the combination of the mandarin and Amalfi lemon with the mint and cassis but frankly, none of the notes are individually identifiable on me.  As this fragrance begins to drydown, it becomes softened and a very, very clean patchouli and oakmoss are identifiable.  Eau d’Orange is a pleasant light, fresh citrus fragrance....

Gallagher Fragrances - Evergreen Dream EDP Today I am testing the newest release from Gallagher Fragrances – Evergreen Dream.  This juice is a fougere and does follow the more traditional formulation model of the fragrance category but finishes quite differently. This fragrance opens with a slightly bitter yet fresh, green aromatic.  I clearly get the scent of evergreen trees.  The opening is strong and surrounds you in the wonderful aroma of being in a lush green forest.  About an hour in, the lavender appears.  Lavender is a note that I struggle with; I think it’s one of those notes that people tend to be polarized on.  The lavender in this juice is bold but it has been tempered with a rich birch tar, wood note, and pine resin.  The accompanying notes add a warmth to the lavender making it more, and in my opinion more universally wearable, than the individual note.  After roughly another hour, the base notes enter and the juice begins i...

Solstice Scents - Jack & The Devil EDP Jack & The Devil is described as an amber/tobacco/earthy/spicy on the Solstice Scents website.  It’s much more than that.  This is my first purchase from the company and they’re off to a great start. This fragrance opens with THE scent of Fall – pumpkin spice.  In a single inhale, you get the perfect replication of pumpkin spice.  The note is bolstered by vanilla which adds a touch of sweetness.  I get a beautiful tobacco (yes tobacco can read as beautiful) just behind the pumpkin spice accord.  Oakmoss, amber, and a clean patchouli help to round out this fragrance and give it body.  There is a decadent richness to this scent.  The drydown is absolutely stunning as the beautiful spice is retained and the oakmoss comes a bit more to the forefront. I applied this scent at 3 pm in an afternoon and was still able to smell it, ever so lightly, the next morning.  Notes: Vanilla, tobacco,...

Parfums Dusita – Issara Extrait de Parfum I have no problem admitting I’m a newbie to the fragrance scene.  The truth is what it is.  (That said I would put my love of scent equal to those long in the establishment.)  When I try a new fragrance, I try to get a sense of what the fragrance means to me personally and then convey that to you in the clearest way I possibly can.  I also, out of obligation and respect for the community at large, try to think about what olfactory group a fragrance most appropriately fits in.  I am struggling on an appropriate olfactory group with Issara and this is not a bad thing. Please excuse my “newbie confusion”  but when I see sites referring to Issara as an aromatic fougere, it baffles me.  My newbie understanding of this category tells me there should be lavender to meet the fougere descriptive.  I see no lavender in the fragrance notes nor do I experience it with the wearing of this fragrance.  So i...

Dua Fragrances: Vetivero Vetivero is a fragrance inspired by Roja Parfums Vetiver Extrait.  It is also a chypre.  Anyone who knows me or has read my fragrance reviews knows I am not generally a chypre fan.  And, while it may not be popular to say in the fragrance community, I am also not a huge Roja fan (personally liking roughly 50% of his fragrances, although respecting the artistry in all).  Vetivero opens with a gorgeous bergamot-lemon.  I’ve hyphenated here as the notes are equally and beautifully balanced.  This is not that icky citrus vibe you get from some other juices – you know, the ones that smell like Lemon Pledge!  No this is a gorgeous, effervescent, fresh note.   I get a light and subtle jasmine.  The rose is subtle as well.  These notes rest ever so delicately on a beautiful base of vetiver and wood.  The spices in this round the base but it’s really the vetiver and woods that sing.  Vetiver Exr...