Houbigant Parfums Paris - Cologne Intense

“The transportative Cologne Intense fragrance honors the alluring originator composed in 1709 by Jean Marie Farina, an impeccable Italian perfumer who'd settled in Cologne and founded a proprietary perfume factory the same year. Named in veneration of his western German city of adoption, his aqua mirabilis masterpiece became an international paragon coveted by titled European nobility, royals and courtesans. The "Water of Cologne" was ferried into France's regal courts by Louis XV's royal French soldiers and officers stationed in Cologne during the Seven Years' War.”

Cologne Intense is labeled as a citrus aromatic.  As such, I was expecting a traditional citrus aromatic.  The opening is supposed to be “Evocative of a clean, fresh, sunny spring morning after a passing shower”.  I did not find this to be true.  Instead, while I do detect notes of bergamot, neroli, and petigrain, these notes do not appear until later in wear and are overshadowed by an intense pink pepper and equally intense incense.  I get no mixed fruit notes whatsoever.  The opening for me is decidedly spicy and smoky.  The intense spice and smoke lasts for about two hours before other notes begin to appear.

As Cologne Intense begins its third hour, the spice and smoke fade slightly and the citrus aromatics begin to step forward.  The spice and smoke do not disappear on my skin during the course of wear.  I get a lovely bergamot fruit blend that easily evoke images of a Mediterranean seaside on a Spring day.  There is a delicate beauty to these notes as a light lavender and jasmine add to the developing heart.  As the juice begins the drydown, a semi-clean patchouli, moderately rich amber, very earthy oakmoss, and soft musk add a soft, warm, animalistic, almost powdery feel. 

Cologne Intense wears with strong to moderate projection for roughly 6 hours on me.

Notes:  Calabrian Bergamot, Sicilian Lemon, Petit Grain Paraguay, Neroli Morocco, Lavender, Estragon, Pink Pepper, Incense Superessence, Jasmine Absolute, Mate Superessence CO2, Patchouli, Labdanum Absolute, Amber, Oakmoss, Musk