Binxcat's Purrfect Fragrance

Perfumology – Clutch Parfum Clutch is the newest fragrance (2018) from the collaboration of Justin Frederico and Nir Guy, the owner of Perfumology.   It is an oriental spicy fragrance said to be inspired by “the gratifying sensation of a perfect drive on a cool day.” I was initially put off by the name of this fragrance.   For me, the name conjures up images of a man, admittedly well-groomed, behind the leather clad wheel of his sports car lapping a track, changing gears, for kicks.   I imagined dense smoke wafting into the air from the unmufflered racing car.   It was not an image that made me want to try the fragrance.   I am very glad my curiosity got the better of me. Clutch opens with a delightfully peppered ginger embraced with the most delicate of white smoke.   It is a rendition of ginger that, while smoky, retains its delicious bite and freshness due to the addition of elemi.   I get the bright crispness in the air that the perfu...

Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle - Musc Ravageur Parfum Spray Frederic Malle’s Musc Ravageur (“Musc”) is one of those fragrances I thought I had tried but had not.   For the life of me, I can’t explain why I missed this!   Released in 2000, it is an oriental (amber oriental) fragrance.   On me, Musc opens with a complex, spicy, slightly sweet, dirty patchouli.   It is heady and intoxicating.   There are dripping notes of amber; rich and syrupy.   A light floral peeks out from the background as a creamy vanilla clove seems to melt effortlessly into the accord. As Musc wears, its raw sensual aspects continue to delight.   The musk in the fragrance joins with the patchouli and creates a carnal sensory explosion.   There is an animalic fearlessness to Musc’s wear.   The drydown of Musc is warm and comforting.   Woody notes slide into Musc with a touch of darkness.   To the end, Musc continues to come to life with an irre...

Apothescary Scents - Mary Shelley Perfume Oil Mary Shelley (“Shelley”) was released by Apothescary Scents as part of the Literary Classics Collection.   On me, Shelley wears as an oriental spicy fragrance. In her description of the fragrance, the perfumer includes a quote from the namesake of the fragrance, “Solitude was my only consolation - deep, dark, deathlike solitude.” (Mary Wollstonecraft Shelley)   The inclusion of this particular quote is telling as it accurately sets the scene for what will play out in the wear of the fragrance.   Shelley the person and the fragrance is colored with dark, mysterious vibes. As she opens, Shelley bursts with a deep, juicy, bold blood orange generous sprinkled with ginger.   The note is biting and spicy.   There is a hint of sweetness that feels just out of reach.   As Shelley wears, a vibrant and warm clove is detected.   There is a resinous underpinning courtesy of the cardamom that amplifies the...

Parfums Dusita - Erawan EDP Erawan is a woody aromatic fragrance released in 2017 from Parfums Dusita.   I selected this fragrance for testing as it’s notes seemed appropriate for the fall-like weather my region is finally moving to. Erawan opens with a creamy nutty woody herbal accord.   The opening is quite unique within the woody aromatics I’ve tested.   There is a brightness and complexity to it while at the same time, not feeling “wet”.   The first whiff is reminiscent of countryside barns.   There is a duality in scent with both a dried tobacco leaf and a fresher green note that I can attribute to the florals.   The greenness adds a touch of water to the composition.   As Erawan wears, I get a vanilla laden hay.   There is a powdery softness to the vanilla without it becoming too sweet or too powdery.   The vanilla almost pulls to a milk chocolate.   In the drydown, I get an infusion of warmth and a slight amplification o...

Giorgio Armani – Sì Passione EDP Sì Passione (“Passione”) is a 2017 flanker release from Giorgio Armani.   To be honest, I almost did not try this fragrance as I am admittedly not a fan of the original.   Still, the fact that this is a floral fruity fragrance convinced me otherwise. Passione opens with a bright, sparkling pear that is slightly spiced by pink pepper.   I get the original version’s blackcurrent underpinnings.   It is a familiar berry, yet different.   There is an assertiveness to the opening that belies its fruity floral nomenclature.   Abut an hour into wear, I get a rose and jasmine bouquet.   The rose is a fresh blossoming note with no jammy-ness.   The jasmine is clean and clear without feeling overdone.   The addition of heliotrope at this point in development was an inspired choice.   While I get the typical powdery hints common with the note, I get more of a comforting almond-vanilla.   The counte...

Mugler Les Exceptions - Oriental Express EDP To help celebrate the Mugler Friends and Family Event, I thought I’d give you another Mugler fragrance review.   Oriental Express (“Express”) is, not surprisingly, an oriental fragrance released by Mugler in 2014.   Express is not your Mother’s oriental.   It is also not one of those 80s-style in your face orientals.   Instead, it has a “come closer” vibe to it. Express opens with a cozy, powdery slightly spiced vanilla.   There is an evolving greenness in the background that lends a slight edge to the otherwise softness.   Into wear, I get a creamy woody note.   The woodiness is ever so slight as to not move this into a woody fragrance territory.   It simply adds depth and contrast.   There is a sense of classic minimalism to the fragrance while at the same time striking a different chord in the oriental fragrance family.   Express feels like what comfort food tastes like. Expre...

House of Matriarch – Woo Released in 2012, Woo is an oriental floral fragrance from the House of Matriarch. Woo opens with a floral-suede accord.   There is a salty marine vibe to the opening without actually being salty.   For me, it’s as if the essence of beachy skin has been captured and layered in with tropical flowers.   About an hour into wear, the initial notes settle a bit and a leafy, dried tobacco joins in.   There is a semi-sweet and smoky earthiness.   That nudges the scent into a dirty-sexy place.   A touch of vanilla bean seems to help round out and soften the tobacco and suede without coming near to being cloying. Woo wears on me with moderate projection for roughly 10 hours. Featured notes: exotic floral notes, sea notes, tobacco, leather, vanilla, ambergris Perfumer: Christi Meshell CRUELTY FREE VEGAN Photo Credit: House of Matriarch

Montale Parfums Paris - Intense Tiare EDP Intense Tiare (“Tiare”) is an oriental floral fragrance that was released by Montale in 2005.   The fragrance celebrates the tiare flower; a member of the gardenia family. With Tiare, I don’t get a lot of development.   On me it’s one of those “what you smell is what you get” fragrances.   And what I get it a deep dive into a tropical vacation.   This one is truly intense.   It’s as if every note has been concentrated and then reflected back.   I get a lush, sweet, intense coconut paired with an equally intense blooming jasmine.   The pairing prevents Tiare from moving to gourmand territory.   The ylang-ylang and rose are present but in the background.   Vanilla adds interest to the fragrance.   The vanilla is more of a dry essence than a sweet note.   There is a creaminess to the scent as well.   The creamy element seems to add to the feeling of depth and the headiness overal...

Guerlain - Aqua Allegoria Pamplelune Aqua Allegoria Pamplelune (“Pamplelune”) is a citrus fragrance released by Guerlain in 1999.   The Collection, Aqua Allegoria, created the eau fraiche genre in fragrance. Pamplelune opens with an intense grapefruit and lemon accord that is bright and tart.   There is a distinct sunny freshness to it.   Soon after, the citrus is joined by a background of bergamot which, while rounding the tartness somewhat, does more by way of adding a fullness to the scent. As Pamlelune wears, I get a deep berry coming through.   I cannot readily identify this note as blackcurrent but it is clearly a berry.   There is a heavy bitterness that begins to come to light.   The fruity notes are tempered by a smooth sandalwood and vanilla that come through at roughly the two and a half hour mark.   The vanilla does not overly sweeten the fragrance.   In the drydown, Pamplelune is joined by patchouli.   The patch...

Berdous - Péng Lái EDP Péng Lái (“Peng”) is an oriental floral fragrance from Berdous.   The fragrance also has hallmarks of being a lightly spicy fruity floral.   The inspiration behind Peng is one of Chinese legend.   It is said that, “The tale of Peng Lai, tells of the island of longevity where the Goddess of Flowers, He Xiangu, sojourned. This grand cru invites you to daydream, clear your mind, and recharge your batteries at the heart of the Middle Kingdom as you admire the singular beauty of this region of the world.” Peng opens with a soft osmanthus and bergamot blended with an equally light, bright citrus.   The notes project with a delicate intimacy.   There is also a gentle sweetness.   Very quickly, I get a juicy peach and a somewhat jammy rose.   Neither of these two notes take this fragrance to a place where it becomes cloying.   At roughly the one hour mark, benzoin adds it’s usual tones and the fragrance begins to round...

Montale - Vanilla Cake EDP Vanilla Cake was launched by Montale in 2018.   It is classified as an oriental vanilla but it's more clearly a gourmand. So, lets’ start out this week on a sweet note with a little silliness.   Let’s talk about cake.   Vanilla cake.   Deep, rich, buttery yellow cake.   It’s quite possible you’re 5 again and at a birthday party.   Oh and there’s that cake.   The cake has just been baked and frosted.   Cake!   You get that strong whiff of vanilla batter that just risen into the most delectable, moist cake there is.   And frosting.   Frosting whipped and piled high full of decadent vanilla goodness.   Sure, there is a slight creamy almond and a soft twist of caramel, perhaps served on the side as garnish, but this is all about the cake.   Did I mention there’s cake?! Vanilla Cake wears on me for about 9 hours with soft projection. Notes: Almond powder, butter cream, milky mousse, ...

Montale Parfums Paris - Intense Café EDP Intense Café is an oriental vanilla fragrance that released in 2013.   A number of my friends in the fragrance community have spoken highly of this fragrance and, being a coffee fiend (both the note and the beverage) I wanted to try it.   I ordered a sample from Luckyscent and… I don’t even know where to begin with this.   It’s rare that I draw a complete blank when writing a review.   I should say here that I tested this fragrance for four days in a row.   And I am lost.   What I mean here is that I was anticipating a glorious coffee fragrance.   What I experienced on each of my trials was not a coffee fragrance in any way. When I take in the very opening of Intense Café, I get a strong, bitter, somewhat spicy or medicinal floral.   It is not identifiable as a specific flower.   The floral intensity softens after about an hour and in comes a rose.   The rose is mixed with a resinous...

Tauer Perfumes - Les Annees 25 EDP Recently launched (2018) to celebrate the brand’s 25 th anniversary (congratulations!), Les Annes 25 (“Annes”) is a floral woody musk. Annes opens with a glorious, sparkling citrus accord.   I get a bold and juicy orange that is bright and actually feels celebratory.   As the fragrance wears, white floral blends with a spiced ginger and creates an intriguing introduction for the addition of a powdery true rose note.   The rose is reminiscent of a dew-laden petal on a Spring morning where the lovely waft of rose permeates the air. As Annes wears, a decadent base of oakmoss, tonka, sandalwood, and amber gris add a sophistication to the fragrance.   There is a creamy smokiness that feels very classic “Tauer”.   In its finishing hours, a light musk and equally light patchouli add complexity while a final touch of vanilla adds a delicately sweetened exuberance. Les Annes 25 wears on me with soft projection for ro...

Twisted Wonderland Perfumery - Mad Tea Party Perfume Oil Mad Tea Party is a straightforward tea fragrance form Twisted Wonderland Perfumery.   The wear is linear so “what you see is what you get”.   It is, however, one of the best renditions of tea in an Indie fragrance in my opinion.   The perfumer has done a very good job at capturing that quintessential Earl Grey tea smell.   You get that classic almost citrusy – bergamot tea note.   the note is blended, as one might drink their tea, with a slightly sweet, creamy vanilla.   The effect is soft and soothing without becoming cloying.   Mad Tea party wears on me with soft projection for roughly 5 – 6 hours. Notes: “Okay..well just half a cup! Freshly brewed earl grey tea with just a splash of sugary vanilla milk” Perfumer: Rae Ganter CRUELTY FREE VEGAN

Ellis Brooklyn – Fawn EDP With Memorial Day being the “unofficial start of Summer” yet the weather having been persistent rain, I was craving a Summer scent.   Based on its notes, Fawn fit the bill. Fawn opens with a sunny, bright, citrus floral tempered with a creamy, milky note.   The effect is reminiscent of warm Summer days, sitting by the ocean, eating a Creamsicle.   There is sweetness to the accord but it is a delicate sweetness.   The initial wear of Fawn is full of joyful childhood memories. As Fawn wears, notes of rose, magnolia, and lily of the valley enter.   The rose is slightly jammy and soft.   The magnolia is lush and blooming.   The lily of the valley is fresh and somewhat green.   These florals add complexity to the fragrance and enrich the opening floral notes into a bouquet.   As Fawn begins her dry down a white musk is present along with a semi-sweet powdery vanilla.   The fragrance is now laying c...

Arno Soreal Paris Solinotes - Vanille EDP Vanille is an aromatic fragrance created with the purpose of wearing on its own or layered with other Solinotes (or other brand) fragrances to create your own personal combination. Vanille wears in a linear way from beginning to end.   The blend of notes creates a delicious soft, sweet, bakery-like vanilla scent.   There is a tempting sweetness to this vanilla that any gourmand-lover should appreciate.   There is at one time a light powdery feel to the vanilla and at the same time a creaminess.   Vanille feels very much like a hug or snuggle of vanilla.   Vanille wears on me for roughly 5 hours with moderate moving to soft projection. Notes: Vanilla, White Flowers, Tonka Bean, White spices Ingredients:   Alcohol Denat , Aqua , Parfum , Octocrylene, Homosalate, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Tocopherol, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Benzyl Alcohol, Benzyl Benzoate, Cinnamyl Alcohol, Ci...

Twisted Wonderland Perfumery - Never Sleep Again (Perfume Oil) Never Sleep Again (“Never Sleep”) is the second Twisted Wonderland fragrances I’ve tested.   (You can read my review of What’s In The Hookah here: https://binxcat4ever.blogspot.com/2018/05/twisted-wonderland-perfumery-whats-in.html ).   Never Sleep is very different from What’s In The Hookah but no less enjoyable. I selected Never Sleep to test based on the notes.   Oh, I a am a fan off coffee in fragrance!   Combined with the touch of vanilla and dark chocolate, Never Sleep is a gourmand lover’s delight.   While Never Sleep is a “what you see is what you get” scent, the lack of development is not a flaw.   From the initial whiff, I get a gorgeous, lush coffee.   It is a dark roast and freshly ground.   The bit of vanilla adds just the right amount of light sweetness.   The dark chocolate compliments the coffee and vanilla in an almost bakery frosting kind of way.  ...

Alexandria Fragrances - Sweet Revenge Launched in 2017, Sweet Revenge (“Revenge”) wears on me as an oriental woody vanilla.   The name of the fragrance seems appropriate.   While the notes are filled with ones typical of an angelic, sweet gourmand, there is a spicy woodiness to the wear that shows a slightly devilish side. Revenge opens with a spicy vanilla.   The vanilla is not overly sweet or cloying on me.   In the beginning of wear Alexandria adds a lot of depth to the traditional vanilla-based fragrance with woodsy notes.   The first hour of wear is a rich, warm, spiced vanilla wood journey.   As Revenge continues to wear, the fragrance takes on a slight feel of pipe tobacco on me.   I get a deeper, creamier spiced vanilla and a burnt sugar much like the top of a creme brulee.   It is a lightly powdered white chocolate which softens and adds creaminess to the fragrance but does not overly sweeten it. Revenge dries down to an...

Olibere Parfums - L`Etoile Noire Launched in 2016, L’Etoile Noire (“Noire”) is a study of light and dark; the opposites that we each carry with us.   The notes classify this as an oriental fragrance, however, in my opinion, it is also very much a woody one. Noire opens on me with a contrast.   On the one hand I get an intense bergamot and sharp lemon and on the other I get an achingly intense peppery spice.   There is a heavy smokiness from the gaiac.   As Noire continues to wear I get more and more tones of wood.   I do not identify the wood as specifically being oud, as iterated in the Notes of this fragrance, but rather a general deep, dark woody accord.   At roughly 3 – 4 hours into wear, Noire takes on a powdery aspect.   There is still an echo of citrus, moderate spice, woods, and smoke but in comes a softened rose and what seems like patchouli.   There is a dried tobacco leaf as well as a very soft dried rose petal. In the...

Kiss My Sass Cosmetics – Rainforest Fairies (perfume oil) In the March 2018 release of Rainforest Fairies (“Rainforest”), Kiss My Sass gives us a vision of the fairy world secreted deep inside a rainforest.   Rainforest opens with a tart and juicy blackberry paired with a lightly dirty patchouli.   There is an immediate sense of deep, dark, rich depth and lushness.   You can feel the loam under your feet while all around you, life springs in abundance.   Entering into the mix come moss and fern.   They add a further damp greenness to the woody points in the fragrance.   The wet notes do not hold Rainforest down; they are coupled with a lightly sweet and creamy vanilla which serves to add an ethereal quality.   There is a play between extremes and yet the duality of the fragrance does not inhibit its beauty.   In the drydown, whispers of jasmine appear as each of the other notes soften into the background. Rainforest wears on me f...