Maison Francis Kurkdjian Paris - Oud Cashmere Mood Extrait de Parfum

It’s no surprise that Oud Cashmere Mood (“Oud”) is an oriental fragrance based on its notes.  Oud is often one of those notes that people find challenging or love.  My curiosity got the better of me with respect to this 2013 fragrance and I wanted to see how oud was taken to a “cashmere mood”.

On initial spray, Oud provides an intense, dry, benzoin-tinged oud.  The oud does not feel “barnyard” but is instead clean.  The initial impact to my olfactory senses had me wondering whether I had over-sprayed at a simple 2 sprays per wrist.  There is a deep, rich smokiness to the notes that rise up.  After the first impressions of Oud have surrounded you, about 30 minutes in, the boldness softens.  It is at this point that the fragrance takes on its complexity.

When I think of cashmere, I think of a soft and comforting tactile experience.  It’s a sensory experience that one would not typically associate with oud.  So, with cashmere being a counterpoint, the perfumer plays with the notion of oud by bringing in the soft, delicate note of vanilla.  The vanilla is present adding a gentle touch to the otherwise heady and somewhat balsamic initial note blend.  The warmth from the benzoin remains. 

Roughly 3 hours into wear I begin to get hints of an emerging ambergris.  I can only assume this is as a result of the labdanum.  The resinous tones wrap around the dry, smoky oud and create the illusion of a more inviting oud.

Oud wears on me for 10 – 11 hours with heavy moving to moderate projection.

Notes: benzoin, vanilla, labdanum, agarwood (oud)

Perfumer:  Francis Kurkdjian