Atelier Cologne - Oud Saphir

Released in 2015, Atelier Cologne’s Oud Saphir (“Oud”) has been described as an oriental woody fragrance.  But (spoilers) Oud wears more like a woody fruity floral on me.

I am a big fan of fragrance that tells a story.  In the case of Oud, Atelier Cologne sets us up with an image of the kind of person who would wear this fragrance, “Her decision was irreversible. She would not continue living a life by others’ rules. To see his deep sapphire blue eyes and feel the calm of his voice again were the only things that mattered now. With him she finally felt ready to write her own history.”  This is a person who has decided to be the master of their own destiny.  It is a person who is self-assured and goes boldly forward into the reality they create for themselves.  And, as also evidenced by the notes and wear of the fragrance, this is a person who has decided to create their own joy.

Oud opens with a delightful slightly spiced bergamot and violet over a more intense woody base.  There is a dark smokiness to the wood.  I don’t get a singular oud note but instead get more of a blended wood where the birch seems to be somewhat more present.  This does not take away from the beauty of the fragrance however, if someone is looking for a more strictly defined oud, this may not be your first choice.

That said, the layering of the fruity floral over the dark and smoky wood has a lovely smoothness and elegance to it.  As the fragrance continues to wear, it takes on a lushness of suede.  Almost as a mirror, the lushness is amplified by a swirl of vanilla (with just a tiny bit of sweetness) and jasmine.  At roughly three and a half hours into wear I begin to sense a note that seems very much like a raspberry – although the note is not listed by the House.  Five hours into wear, the woody accord has faded to where it seems to sit in the background and continues with its lightly smoky fruity floral sophistication.

Oud Saphir wears on me with moderate moving to soft projection for roughly 8-9 hours.

Notes: Calabrian Bergamot, Ambrette, Pink Pepper, Violet Leaves, Egyptian Jasmine, Suede Leather, Dark Oud Accord, Birch Wood, Madagascar Vanilla.