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DedCool – MILK Fragrance Enhancer + Layering Fragrance Oil New in the DedCool line-up is MILK; a fragrance enhancing layering oil.   If you follow me, you know DedCool is one of my favorite fragrance brands so, while I am not really a fragrance laying kind of person, I still wanted to try out this new release. MILK is a fragrance oil and comes in a roll on.   For the purposes of this product, I think a roll on makes sense.   I tested MILK on its own but of course you can feel free to use it to enhance any fragrance you like. MILK is very much a what you smell is what you get scent.   It is a lovely, slightly sweet, partly resinous white musk* with a hint of bergamot.   The bergamot adds a very light spicy citrusy-floral while the amber adds enough interest without being too resinous.   There is a light earthiness to the scent.   This is a fragrance oil that can easily be worn on its own merits. MILK wears on me for roughly 10 hours wi...
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Nasomatto: Nudiflorum Extrait de Parfum Nudiflorum was released in 2018 by Nasamatto.   It is a floral woody musk that is said to be, “an interpretation of a feeling of being touched.” On me, Nudiflorum opens with a very bold, smoky, rubbery leather.   It is an opening not for the bashful.   It has a raw, hotness to it that in some ways is reminiscent of flesh.   Shortly after the initial note, the leather is accompanied by a deep green bitterness atop a pensive iris.   In my wear, I could not detect violet. In the middle of wear, a synthetically sticky jasmine with a bit of sweetness melds into the smoked leather.   The scent remains rough and rugged.   It feels like an intentionally unfinished symphony.   A swirl of musky white florals compliments the drydown.   Where you’d expect there to be cacophony, there is sense.   There is an overall primal sensation in the wear of Nudiflorum that makes it stand out as something ve...
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Kyse Perfumes: Bonbons À La Vanille Bonbons À La Vanille (“Bonbons”) is a new release from Kyse Perfumes.   On me, it wears as an oriental vanilla (gourmand) fragrance.   It is important to stop here to note that this fragrance was created for the perfumer’s friend at his request for a “grown up vanilla candy”.     I find this quite lovely.   Bonbons opens as a delectable, sweet, pure vanilla.   There is an eloquent finish on the vanilla that prevents it from becoming a mass market teen-type vanilla.   In Bonbons, Peru Balsam adds a slightly earthiness to the vanilla as I reach roughly 2 hours into wear.   Into the drydown, I get a slight spice – cinnamon possibly but not quite distinct.   There is a soft, light, white muskiness in the drydown as well which adds a comforting feel; much like a warm blanket in the Winter. Bonbons wears on me with soft projection for roughly 7 – 8 hours. Notes: Tahitian vanilla beans, Peru b...
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Charlotte Tilbury – Scent of a Dream Perfume Scent of a Dream (“Dream”) is a chypre floral fragrance released by the iconic Charlotte Tilbury brand in 2016.   The fragrance launched with the face of the equally iconic Kate Moss.   The scent is comprised of notes of scented oils from the Ibiza markets, where Tilbury hails from. So, confession - I would not have bought this fragrance.   Dream contains the hallmark notes of rose, jasmine, patchouli, and bergamot which are often components of a chypre floral. Chypre Florals are one of my least favorite categories of fragrance, so while I am a fan of the cosmetic line, I most likely would have skipped on the fragrance.   Fortunately for me, during the recent Black Friday sales, Charlotte Tilbury included this fragrance as a GWP.   I am so pleased she did. Dream opens as a bright, somewhat spicy, fruity note.   The fruit notes are balanced but on me, the peach speaks the loudest.   There is a s...
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Dreaming Tree Soapworks – Wonderland Aromatic Elixer Wonderland Aromatic Elixer (“Wonderland”) is a perfume oil created by Dreaming Tree Soapworks that will make the wearer feel like they’ve discovered Alice’s Wonderland.   A sweet fruity floral, this elixir harkens to the imagination of childhood. Wonderland opens, and wears, as a playful sweet raspberry violet.   It is clean and lighthearted.   It very much reminds me of being a young child venturing into a sweet shop with the great big apothecary jars filled with candies.   There is a slight tartness to the black raspberry which brings to mind the variety and rainbow of colors in the sweet shop.   The violet in Wonderland is reminiscent of candied violets often found on high end baked goods. Wonderland has a wear time on me of roughly 6 – 7 hours and has a soft to skin scent projection. Notes: black raspberry, spun sugar, violets Perfumer: Meghan Young Vegan, Gluten Free, Dye Free, P...
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Perfumology – Clutch Parfum Clutch is the newest fragrance (2018) from the collaboration of Justin Frederico and Nir Guy, the owner of Perfumology.   It is an oriental spicy fragrance said to be inspired by “the gratifying sensation of a perfect drive on a cool day.” I was initially put off by the name of this fragrance.   For me, the name conjures up images of a man, admittedly well-groomed, behind the leather clad wheel of his sports car lapping a track, changing gears, for kicks.   I imagined dense smoke wafting into the air from the unmufflered racing car.   It was not an image that made me want to try the fragrance.   I am very glad my curiosity got the better of me. Clutch opens with a delightfully peppered ginger embraced with the most delicate of white smoke.   It is a rendition of ginger that, while smoky, retains its delicious bite and freshness due to the addition of elemi.   I get the bright crispness in the air that the perfu...
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Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle - Musc Ravageur Parfum Spray Frederic Malle’s Musc Ravageur (“Musc”) is one of those fragrances I thought I had tried but had not.   For the life of me, I can’t explain why I missed this!   Released in 2000, it is an oriental (amber oriental) fragrance.   On me, Musc opens with a complex, spicy, slightly sweet, dirty patchouli.   It is heady and intoxicating.   There are dripping notes of amber; rich and syrupy.   A light floral peeks out from the background as a creamy vanilla clove seems to melt effortlessly into the accord. As Musc wears, its raw sensual aspects continue to delight.   The musk in the fragrance joins with the patchouli and creates a carnal sensory explosion.   There is an animalic fearlessness to Musc’s wear.   The drydown of Musc is warm and comforting.   Woody notes slide into Musc with a touch of darkness.   To the end, Musc continues to come to life with an irre...
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L’Artisan Parfumeur:   Natura Fabularis – 18 Glacialis Terra EDP Released in 2016 as part of the Natura Fabularis Collection, Glacialis Terra (“Glacialis”) is an aromatic green fragrance.   I’ve selected this fragrance to share with you today as we are now experiencing the first snow of the season; this just seemed appropriate. Glacialis opens with a chilled vetiver.   It is fresh and green.   There is a slight bite to the opening as an absinthe adds an anise-tinge.   Somehow, the vetiver remains green without becoming hay or grass-like.   There is a subtle hint of frozen white florals that dance through the middle of wear.   Through the rest of wear, Glacialis ebbs and flows like a walk through a proverbial Winter Wonderland.   It retains its clean freshness and gives us an interesting take on vetiver through the lens of Winter. Glacialis wears on me with soft projection for roughly 8 – 9 hours. Notes: vetiver, absinthe, floral ...
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Mugler Cologne: Come Together EDT Come Together is an aromatic green and is one of the new releases in the Mugler Collection.   It is “The original unifying cult cologne by Mugler boasts the same scandalously addictive sensual trail.”   Like the original, it opens with a green petitgrain.   The initial opening is distinctly green and fresh.   Quickly, the initial strength of the green backs off a bit and is joined by a glorious clean musk.   There is a slight sweetness to the fragrance and I detect a leafy white floral accord.   Through the remainder of wear, Come Together retains its olfactory qualities.   It is fresh, clean, and enticing with its white musk.   It is an approachable fragrance which wears well alone or, for those who like to pair, would go nicely with a variety of other fragrances. Come Together wears on me for roughly 5 – 6 hours with soft projection. CRUELTY FREE Photo Credit: Nordstrom
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DedCool – Madonna (Lilly) Madonna (Lilly) (“Madonna”) is one of the new releases in the DedCool Series 2.   She wears on me as a woody spicy fragrance. Madonna opens with a spicy burst of black pepper coupled with hints of citrus.   There is an interesting warmth and freshness to the opening.   About 15 minutes into wear, the black pepper recedes slightly and the fragrance takes on a creamy quality.   Roughly 2 hours into wear, I begin to get notes of a delicately resinous amber and woody notes.   Madonna is distinctly interesting at this point in wear.   She is warm without being too spicy, she is comforting while being complex. Madonna’s drydown brings further complexity.   A light white floral perhaps? A new rush of creamy citrus? A delicate spiced wood?   Yes on all accounts.   Yet even with the development of each note, the fragrance retains on course with an even balance. Madonna wears on me with moderate projectio...
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Mugler - Les Exceptions: Over the Musk EDP Over the Musk (“Musk”) is a woody floral musk fragrance released by Mugler in 2014 as part of the Les Exceptions Collection.   Like many of the fragrance in the Les Exceptions Collection, Musk is a slightly different twist on the classic musk fragrance.   This is not your 1980’s musk.   Instead, it is a musk fragrance that add subtle, yet interesting notes with restraint that turns this fragrance into something both comforting and new. Musk opens with a clean, traditional musk note accompanied by the delicate hint of floral from the ambrette.   It creates a softer, almost sweeter take on musk.   Musk adds a bit of surprise for you as it wears.   It takes on a lightly resinous aspect along with a warm, light-handed spice of black pepper.   A sumptuous wood rounds out this fragrance.   The layering of the notes in Musk, while not “in your face”, serve to create a soothing, warm, and somewhat sex...
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Apothescary Scents - Mary Shelley Perfume Oil Mary Shelley (“Shelley”) was released by Apothescary Scents as part of the Literary Classics Collection.   On me, Shelley wears as an oriental spicy fragrance. In her description of the fragrance, the perfumer includes a quote from the namesake of the fragrance, “Solitude was my only consolation - deep, dark, deathlike solitude.” (Mary Wollstonecraft Shelley)   The inclusion of this particular quote is telling as it accurately sets the scene for what will play out in the wear of the fragrance.   Shelley the person and the fragrance is colored with dark, mysterious vibes. As she opens, Shelley bursts with a deep, juicy, bold blood orange generous sprinkled with ginger.   The note is biting and spicy.   There is a hint of sweetness that feels just out of reach.   As Shelley wears, a vibrant and warm clove is detected.   There is a resinous underpinning courtesy of the cardamom that amplifies the...
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Kensington Apothecary – Capri 1966 EDP Kensington Apothecary has been on my radar for a while now.   As a beauty blogger, I became aware of the brand some time ago through their skincare line.   I was impressed by the founder’s use of natural ingredients and their commitment to community.   When they made the decision to launch their first fragrance collection, Expatica Scent Collection, I was immediately interested.   I was fortunate enough to be able to obtain a sample of one of the three releases, Capri 1966 (“Capri”).   Capri has been described by the perfumer as a “tomboy floral”.    Of course, many of us in the fragrance community no longer consider fragrance male or female, however, there can be made some distinction in notes of scents which were traditionally identified as owning to male or female. If you’ve followed my fragrance blog, you already know that I personally love a scent that tells a story.   In the case of Capri, the...
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Parfums Dusita - Erawan EDP Erawan is a woody aromatic fragrance released in 2017 from Parfums Dusita.   I selected this fragrance for testing as it’s notes seemed appropriate for the fall-like weather my region is finally moving to. Erawan opens with a creamy nutty woody herbal accord.   The opening is quite unique within the woody aromatics I’ve tested.   There is a brightness and complexity to it while at the same time, not feeling “wet”.   The first whiff is reminiscent of countryside barns.   There is a duality in scent with both a dried tobacco leaf and a fresher green note that I can attribute to the florals.   The greenness adds a touch of water to the composition.   As Erawan wears, I get a vanilla laden hay.   There is a powdery softness to the vanilla without it becoming too sweet or too powdery.   The vanilla almost pulls to a milk chocolate.   In the drydown, I get an infusion of warmth and a slight amplification o...
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Giorgio Armani – Sì Passione EDP Sì Passione (“Passione”) is a 2017 flanker release from Giorgio Armani.   To be honest, I almost did not try this fragrance as I am admittedly not a fan of the original.   Still, the fact that this is a floral fruity fragrance convinced me otherwise. Passione opens with a bright, sparkling pear that is slightly spiced by pink pepper.   I get the original version’s blackcurrent underpinnings.   It is a familiar berry, yet different.   There is an assertiveness to the opening that belies its fruity floral nomenclature.   Abut an hour into wear, I get a rose and jasmine bouquet.   The rose is a fresh blossoming note with no jammy-ness.   The jasmine is clean and clear without feeling overdone.   The addition of heliotrope at this point in development was an inspired choice.   While I get the typical powdery hints common with the note, I get more of a comforting almond-vanilla.   The counte...
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Pinrose – Secret Genius Secret Genius (“Genius”) was released in 2015 and is the first fragrance I’ve tested from Pinrose.   Genius is an oriental vanilla. If you look below the main review, you’ll see I’ve kept the brand’s Notes as published instead of converting it to the “standard” fragrance terms for the note construction.   The way the brand describes Notes and, moreover, the way they describe the basic “vibe” of their fragrances speaks to who their target audience is.   In the case of Genius, the fragrance is described as: VIBE   Trustworthy • Comforting • Sexy PERFECT FOR Hatching plans and sneaking kisses SIPS LIKE   White Russian Genius isn’t a fragrance that has much by way of development with the exception of the initial note I get in the very opening.   Basically, it’s a “what you smell is what you get”.   And that’s not necessarily a bad thing.   What was less than spectacular was the very first opening note that I...
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By Kilian - Vodka on the Rocks EDP Vodka on the Rocks (“Vodka”) was released By Kilian in 2014.   The fragrance is an interesting aromatic with strong earthy underpinnings. The opening of Vodka is surprisingly much like the initial pour of vodka into a glass of ice.   Through the use of aldehydes, which typically are not a favorite of mine, Kilian manages to replicate the essence of that singular moment.   There is a slight spiciness to the opening with coriander being more prominent than cardamom, but overall the clear alcohol accord comes through. As Vodka wears, I get the bitter rhubarb and rose.   The two are well paired and with the help of Lily of the Valley, a citric floral emerges.   At the same time, I begin to get smoky leathery notes.   On me, the base notes are just smoky enough that I get a vibe of a white incense.   Vodka on the Rocks wears on me for roughly 9 hours with moderate projection. Notes: cardmom, coriande...
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Mugler - Les Exceptions - Wonder Bouquet EDP In 2017, Mugler added Wonder Bouquet (“Wonder”) to the Les Exceptions Collection.   This floral fruity gourmand adds a decided twist to the fragrance family with the surprise addition of a bread/bran accord. You wouldn’t think it would work.   Sure, we’re used to fruity florals with “edible” notes.   We’re also used to the whole host of gourmands out there with doses of vanilla and chocolate and fig… but bread?   Yes.   It works; and surprisingly well. Wonder opens with a lovely fruity floral offering.   The notes are so well blended that the actual scent feels like a lovely passing breeze infused with white florals.   There is a sunniness and fresh sweetness to the florals, courtesy of the orange blossom, and the jasmine is well tempered.   In the mix is also an almost yeast-like note.   It’s just there, in the background, and yet tangible.   It’s the best of the “just preparing...
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Mugler Les Exceptions - Oriental Express EDP To help celebrate the Mugler Friends and Family Event, I thought I’d give you another Mugler fragrance review.   Oriental Express (“Express”) is, not surprisingly, an oriental fragrance released by Mugler in 2014.   Express is not your Mother’s oriental.   It is also not one of those 80s-style in your face orientals.   Instead, it has a “come closer” vibe to it. Express opens with a cozy, powdery slightly spiced vanilla.   There is an evolving greenness in the background that lends a slight edge to the otherwise softness.   Into wear, I get a creamy woody note.   The woodiness is ever so slight as to not move this into a woody fragrance territory.   It simply adds depth and contrast.   There is a sense of classic minimalism to the fragrance while at the same time striking a different chord in the oriental fragrance family.   Express feels like what comfort food tastes like. Expre...
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House of Matriarch – Woo Released in 2012, Woo is an oriental floral fragrance from the House of Matriarch. Woo opens with a floral-suede accord.   There is a salty marine vibe to the opening without actually being salty.   For me, it’s as if the essence of beachy skin has been captured and layered in with tropical flowers.   About an hour into wear, the initial notes settle a bit and a leafy, dried tobacco joins in.   There is a semi-sweet and smoky earthiness.   That nudges the scent into a dirty-sexy place.   A touch of vanilla bean seems to help round out and soften the tobacco and suede without coming near to being cloying. Woo wears on me with moderate projection for roughly 10 hours. Featured notes: exotic floral notes, sea notes, tobacco, leather, vanilla, ambergris Perfumer: Christi Meshell CRUELTY FREE VEGAN Photo Credit: House of Matriarch